Georgia Peach

Even if you're an adherent of the old Chris and Gram Burritos.

In fact, listening to this album has caused me to revise my thinking about Sneaky's refried Burrito. While I still think this FBB offshoot should be well left alone, I would be the first to acknowledge that Carlton Moody is a heck of a great singer - even if he is a tad too country and not enough rock compared to Gram, Chris or even John Beland. His version of "Streets of Baltimore" and his own "Feels Like A Heartache" prove that Pete has picked a fine singer who does respect the FBB tradition.

The real surprise here, though, is Willie Watson of "Old Crow Medicine Show"...No, there will never be another Gram Parsons, but young Willie sure gives it a grand try. While the version of "Wheels" here is pretty lame - and honestly could have been recorded with more spirit, Mr. Watson does a credible "Hickory Wind" - but the real gem of this album is Watson's rendition of George Jones' "She Once Lived Here" or "Town without Memories" - a staple of the original Gram-Chris-Sneaky-Michael Clarke Burritos. He sings it loud and achingly enough as if the spirit of Gram had taken possession of his soul. I recently obtained a copy of an FBB live recording of Gram singing this same song, and young Willie sounds more like the real deal than the late Mr. Parsons himself.

Even Gib Guilbeau is on board, singing a heartfelt "Louisiana" - which he co-wrote with John Beland.

About the only bad penny here is Tommy Spurlock - not a bad singer but too atypical for my eclectic Burrito tastes. His "GP" glorifies Gram a bit too much - and since Waycross, Georgia also gave us Larry Murray and Ozzie Davis, it certainly wasn't a town nobody ever heard of. And yes, Tommy, there was another gifted singer-songwriter in that original Burritos whether the Grampires like it or not.

Mind you, I still have issues with Pete trying to continue the Burritos after Chris disbanded DRB and Beland the last band with the FBB moniker; it does say something that Willie Watson decided not to tour with Burrito Deluxe nor sing on the "Whole Enchilada" - no doubt he chose career longevity and OCMS over being caught in the shadow of a dead man - I'll still give Carlton Moody and his whiskey meets honey vocals the benefit of the doubt this time around.

Country rock doesn't get any better than the Byrds' "Sweetheart of the Rodeo" and the Flying Burrito Brothers' "Gilded Palace of Sin." The common denominator, and main creative force, in both of those groundbreaking records, of course, was Gram Parsons. Even though Gram died prematurely, his legendary status was already assured, based solely on his work on those two albums. Over the years, the Burritos' legacy has been largely betrayed by mutant Burrito Brothers bands that have strayed farther and farther from the soulfulness of its progenitor. Until now, that is.

Burrito Deluxe is the first spinoff that pays reverence to Gram's original vision for the band. "Georgia Peach" (note the "G.P." initials) features three great vocalists (Carlton Moody, Tommy Spurlock, and Willie Watson) who not only cover Gram's greatest hits, but contribute some sterling originals that are compatible with FBB's original repertoire. Watson, especially, does such a great job of capturing Gram's mournful wail, you'd swear G.P. has returned from the dead.

Sneaky Pete, the only original Burrito Brother in this band, is the foundation of the group, laying down some steely, syrupy guitar runs on classics like "Christine's Tune" and "Wheels." The band is supplemented by longtime hanger-on, Gib Guilbeau and the Band's Garth Hudson, who adds some subtle but haunting keyboards to "Hickory Wind." This is an album that is well worth hearing. Let's hope Burrito Deluxe remains intact and carries on the tradition begun by the great Gram Parsons.

The Flying Burrito Brothers' "Gilded Palace of Sin" was unlike anything else ever heard when it came out - plus the cover went somewhere none other ever had. Naturally Gram Parsons was at the heart of this still-vibrant, thrilling piece of music, but his partners made it the whole, scintillating, tasty peach. Critical to the album's identity is the sound of Sneaky Pete Kleinow's steel guitar - a yowling, searing sound carrying the desperation of sin city and salvation, despair and hope. As the Burritos became stale, the best thing they offered was Sneaky Pete's screaming steel, still making noises no other steel ever made.

Now we have this album, featuring Sneaky Pete and memorializing GP. Sadly, the entire album passes without one distinctive sound from the steel. It does contain "Wheels" and "Christine's Tune" from that first fresh Burrito album, but even they sink into the tepid waters Sneaky Pete and his friends use to wash these songs of any soul, feeling, or pain.

Save your money - there's a country band in a Holiday Inn near you that plays with as much spirit as these guys. Buy the band a Shiner Bock, then buy a copy of "Gilded Palace" and give it to someone who hasn't heard it. You will do yourself a big favor.